What to see in NoLo: a guide to Milan's most creative neighbourhood

NoLo isn't a neighbourhood you tick off a list of monuments — it's one you live. The name, short for North of Loreto, was coined back in 2013 by three residents who, taking a cue from New York's SoHo and NoHo, gave an identity to the area just north of Piazzale Loreto. What used to be a working-class, slightly forgotten corner of Milan has since become one of the city's most interesting urban laboratories: street art, independent cafés, galleries, design studios and a multicultural mix that's hard to find anywhere else in Milan.

If you're thinking of passing through — or staying here, a choice we naturally approve of — here's what really deserves your time.

First things first: where we are

NoLo stretches roughly between Piazzale Loreto, Via Padova and Viale Monza, with the railway marking its eastern edge. You reach it on the M1 metro (Pasteur and Rovereto stops) and it's a 15–20 minute walk from Central Station. In other words: you're off the tourist trail, yet the Duomo is still less than 10 minutes away by metro. It's exactly this balance that makes the neighbourhood such a smart base — we go into more detail on our NoLo neighbourhood page and in our getting here guide.

Piazza Morbegno, the neighbourhood's living room

If NoLo had a centre of gravity, it would be Piazza Morbegno. A small, tucked-away square a stone's throw from Via Padova, over the years it has become the neighbourhood's natural meeting point: bars with outdoor tables, live music evenings, people lingering to chat late into the night (respecting the neighbours, one hopes). It's the right place to get a feel for NoLo in an hour: sit down, order something and watch the neighbourhood go by.

The street art: an open-air museum

NoLo is one of the richest parts of Milan for urban art. The walls along the railway, the shop shutters, the underpasses and the façades around Via Pontano are covered in murals and pieces by Italian and international artists, and the scene is always changing: new works appear, others get painted over, others still speak to one another.

A few practical tips:

Wander with no fixed plan through Via Padova, Via Pontano and the streets between Viale Monza and the railway: the best surprises are never signposted.
Look up and look down: beyond the big murals there are poster pieces, stickers and small interventions that tell the story of the neighbourhood.
Go by day for the photos, by evening for the atmosphere of the bars.

Parco Trotter, the green lung with a story

Between Via Padova and Via Giacosa lies Parco Trotter, one of Milan's most unusual parks. Built in the early 1900s as a trotting racecourse (hence the name), in the 1920s it became home to the "Casa del Sole", an open-air school that was avant-garde for its time. It still houses a school today and is a public park much loved by residents: tree-lined avenues, historic buildings, teaching gardens and an atmosphere that feels a world away from the traffic of Viale Monza.

It's perfect for a morning stroll, a picnic, or letting the kids run around — if you're travelling as a family, it's an almost obligatory stop.

Cinema Beltrade: the cinema you don't expect

On Via Oxilia, a few minutes from Piazza Morbegno, is Cinema Beltrade, an independent screen that has become something of a national talking point: a bold arthouse programme, screenings from morning until late at night, and a devoted audience. Even if original-language cinema isn't part of your usual travel plans, walking past the Beltrade and glancing at what's on is part of the NoLo experience.

The covered market and neighbourhood shopping

On Viale Monza you'll find the NoLo Covered Market (Mercato Comunale), a historic indoor market brought back to life as a hybrid space: food stalls, kitchens, events and neighbourhood initiatives. It's a good spot for an informal lunch and to see up close how NoLo's revival runs through everyday places too.

All around, the neighbourhood is full of:

Independent cafés with hand-picked roasts and weekend brunch;
Boutiques and vintage shops, often run by the owners themselves;
Galleries and design studios that open their doors during events and festivals;
Kitchens from around the world along Via Padova: one of Italy's most multicultural streets, where within ten minutes you can eat Latin American, Middle Eastern, Asian and Sicilian.

A neighbourhood that does things: festivals and community

What sets NoLo apart from other "up-and-coming" areas is its community. There's a grassroots neighbourhood radio station (Radio NoLo), an off-theatre festival that brings shows into courtyards and bars (the NoLo Fringe Festival), some of the most active social streets in Milan, and a thousand initiatives that come and go. You don't need to plan anything: if you're around for a few days, you'll always stumble on something happening.

And just outside the neighbourhood

NoLo is also a handy base for exploring the surrounding area:

Corso Buenos Aires — one of the longest shopping streets in Europe — starts at Piazzale Loreto, a few minutes' walk away;
Central Station, an absolute landmark of 20th-century architecture, is a quarter of an hour on foot;
On the M1 from Pasteur or Rovereto you're at the Duomo in under 10 minutes: if you have three days, we've put together a 3-day Milan itinerary starting right here;
To the north, along the Martesana canal, you can cycle and stroll all the way to the Anfiteatro Martesana, a favourite with families.

In short: why NoLo is worth a visit (or a stay)

NoLo is the right choice if you're after the real Milan: creative, multicultural, still changing, with fairer prices than the centre and an energy that the showcase neighbourhoods lost long ago. There are no queues to join or tickets to book: there's a neighbourhood to cross on foot, slowly, letting yourself be surprised.

And if you're wondering where to sleep around here, we've also written an honest guide to the neighbourhoods near Central Station.

Looking for a base in NoLo? Nolo75 is a design apartment with 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, less than 5 minutes from the M1 metro and a quarter of an hour on foot from Central Station. Book direct for the best price and talk to us in person. **Check the dates and book →**